from St. Petersburg Details
“No democracy – dermocracy,” says taxi driver friend of Marisa Fushille of American Center, Moscow. Derm in Russian means “shit.”
Social services broken down. Pensions lost. Old ladies without pensions make living as museum guards. Old folks stand on sidewalks of major thoroughfares singing the Internationale, raising Stalin banners high.
Peter’s trashy streets. Morning after Graduation Day of All the Russias in St. Pete teams of women with whisk brooms tied with red rags sweep up cigarette butts from cracks in pavements, plastic vodka bottles from Palace Square.
Dostoyevsky in “White Nights”––how life in St. Petersburg is “that life which is a mixture of something purely fantastic, something fervently ideal, and at the same time (alas!), something frightfully prosaic and ordinary, not to say incredibly vulgar.” …
St. Petersburg’s yellow, blue & white or plain white facades must be repainted every ten years. Good town for house painters. A team repaints the black enamel railing of the horse-tamers bridge (Fontanka). At Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo, the stucco Titans at the rear were originally gold leaf; the leaf fell off after a single winter. Gold leaf on stucco no good in this climate, if any. Now they are painted a horrid shit yellow. Putin asked the Director what would it cost to re-gild the statues. “I have no idea! It is impracticable!” “Come on, you know these things!” “Millions––but . . .!” Days later, Putin calls with a plan: cover the Titans with form-fitting titanium sheathing and put gold leaf on that. Putin is serious; it might get done.